I've Ghana to Ghana!
God grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change; courage to change the things I can; and wisdom to know the difference.
About Me
- Sonia S
- Bolgatanga, Upper East Region, Ghana
- Welcome to my Peace Corps blog! I am excited to say, with much anticipation, that I am serving as a natural resource advisor in Agroforestry in the Republic of Ghana from June 2011 to August 2013. The Peace Corps has been serving in Ghana for 50 consecutive years now, so our group has some big shoes to fill.
I love (and will miss) my family and friends, and especially being able to talk to you! Here's how we can make that happen.
EMAIL: sonia.slavinski@gmail.com
SKYPE: sonia.slavinski
NEW ADDRESS: Sonia Slavinski, PCV - P.O. Box 743 - Bolgatanga, Upper East - Ghana, West Africa
Tuesday, February 14, 2012
Saturday, November 26, 2011
Thankful
But back to reality on the home-bound front. My life at site is progressing. Daily life is getting easier. Projects are starting to pick up. And I reach new levels of understanding all the time. However, the cultural steps are probably the slowest for me, so there's one in particular I would like to share with you. Every Sunday morning (though I missed it today because of my wonderful vacation) at around six o'clock am--or more specifically, about an hour after the guinea fowl, roosters, pigs, and goats get REALLY loud--I put on a Ghanaian looking outfit and walk to church. The general good morning greeting, "bulika" is always followed with a short or long "how are you?"/"I am fine" conversation. Specifically for foreigners it's usually followed up with "ho kingla be?" (where are you going?). Usually I respond with school, the market, or work, but on Sundays, I get to mix it up and respond with church. Then, in contrast with American culture, they ask me to pray for them. It's about a half hour walk on the dirt road through the market. I continuously wear my chaco's, but I am always met with women impressively wearing heels and long dresses and sometimes with a baby strapped on their back with a two-yard. And this isn't all that I'm impressed with on Sundays. The church really does do good things for its community. They were the point of funding for a *I think* government-built dam. The church site serves as a soccer (football) field, volleyball court, and physical education center for the community's adult teams and school teams. The church funds the only orphanage in the area for babies 0-3 years of age (the time when babies are normally breast fed here) by providing housing, food, and caretakers. After the three years, the babies return to the household of the mother's with the live-in caretaker, who is also from the mother's family. The church's common area hosts meetings, such as a the malaria/malnutrition stakeholder meeting led by the local clinic. There is a women's group (the Christian Mother's Group) that doubles as a shea producing group and is already registered with the District Assembly as a cooperative- a group I am just starting to get involved with. They had a speaker talk about Hep B and testing after church (though it wasn't for free). And after being in a homestay and living in kind of a homestay as a volunteer, the church provides much, much needed direction and moral discussion for youth. And the majority of the people I have met and am becoming friends with in my community go to the church as well. So going to church is a win-win as a volunteer and an interesting way to spend my Sunday mornings with my community.
Generally, the service isn't that much different. I like that it reminds me of home. There is some singing, incense, bible reading, alter boys, collection, prayers, kneeling, sacrament, and a even a reading of church's upcoming events. But within these there are a magnitude of differences between mass here and mass at home:
- First and foremost, it isn't in English. The entire mass is in Gurune, and though I'm getting more and more comfortable with the language used for directions, shopping, and general greetings, the langauge at this level is currently beyond me. Needless to say, this makes it quite a long two hours. Well actually I should correct myself, there are about ten minutes of english during the two-hour mass. When this happens, the father stares directly at the one white person in the 300+ person mass, me, and summarizes his sermon in English. Though I still have trouble understanding his Ghanaian-English, I appreciate the sentiment. According to my neighbors, he didn't always do that before I came along.
- They sing the songs in English. But Ghanaians, not particularly gifted in this arena, and even difficult to understand in English generally, I usually have no idea what song they're singing. The one song that is genuinely recognizable is the first song they sing: When the Saints Go Marching In. Not, to my knowledge, a traditional church song, but I suppose it is a logical choice. They play it when everyone stands and the father of the church enters.
- What they lack in singing they make up for in dancing and drumming. This is the more local tradition coming in, and I've come to appreciate it more and more. The dancing here is a sort of elbow-y, clap-y shift from left to right. Nothing you would see in the Paso Robles Saint Rose Catholic Church.
- Collection. This can only fairly be described as a conga line. There are ushers that sort of 'release' the next row of people to join the line to what you would think was a club, not toward the alter. And the pace of the line around the church is almost faster than a trot. With the intense patterns and wide pallet of colors that make up the outfits appropriate for Sunday's best, the first couple of times I went I had to look away to keep from getting nauseous. DEFINITELY not something you would see in the Paso Robles Saint Rose Catholic Church.
- The seating arrangement. I've been assured multiple times that anyone can sit anywhere they want, but with the exception of a few late comers and the choir it's always men in one section, mothers in one section, older women in one section, children in another section, high-school aged girls in another section, and high-school aged boys in yet another section. I've never seen a family actually sit together, which is a sharp contrast to church at home.
The differences continue with almost every aspect of my days here in Ghana, and being away for the holidays is hard, but reflecting on everything makes me thankful for it and church seems to have the most parallels of all in terms of differences within something you know. I hope all is well in the states and you had a wonderful and thankful-filled Thanksgiving!
Love and miss!
Sonia
Friday, October 14, 2011
Thursday, October 13, 2011
Plenty Busy
Sunday, August 21, 2011
Health
- How is your malaria?
- Malaria?
- Yes, how are you feeling?
During training, we spent a week at our respective sites we will be calling home for the next two years (site visit). It was great getting to see my site, but I was unfortunately sick for most of the week. I had a string of visitors at my door welcoming me to the community, and this was generally how the conversations started. My symptoms were a sore throat, runny nose, and fever. Apart from the later, my symptoms were in no way characteristic of malaria. Though I do have more than my fair share of bug bites, I have been taking malaria prophylaxis, using a bug net, and again, did not have the right symptoms. These questions were my introduction to the misconceptions surrounding malaria. It has become synonymous with virtually all forms of sickness. I knew that by coming here I would battle misconceptions, and it had even been the focus of a few sessions during the prior week’s training on HIV/AIDS, but this takes me by surprise. The misconceptions surrounding AIDS have culminated in a disease known as the silent killer. Millions, maybe billions, are spent on awareness campaigns and testing. But the malaria story is different. It suffers from over diagnosis. How can you ever eradicate a disease when everything is called malaria? Similar to AIDS, the simple understanding of transmission is half the public health battle, and because of this, the cultural and social issues play a key role. And again, similar to AIDS, the malaria story is full of controversy. Remember DDT? But unlike AIDS, malaria is propagated and controlled by environmental factors. The cesspools of urine behind the latrine let them breed, the missing mosquito net and holes in the trap door let them in, and the lack of bug spray lets them bite. Each of these widespread problems is an environmental factor. Having the opportunity to deal with these challenges in a village is why I became a volunteer. But as with every problem, it’s a package deal. Social and cultural barriers play a huge role in environmental problems. During my site visit, later in the week, I had the opportunity to visit my village’s clinic. They were welcoming, and it was everything I had pictured a clinic in Africa to be. I’m really excited to help where I can there, and hopefully I can help with malaria efforts.
Each week of training has almost always shown me a new region of Ghana, a new set of potential projects for site, and most importantly, a new level of comfort being here. Training, on the whole, has been fantastic. It’s been a mix of lectures, practical, and being thrown into the culture and Ghanaian life. The logistics since my last post—
Week 5: Counterpart Workshop (an agricultural college in Bunso, Eastern Region) We spent a week at an agricultural college doing an HIV/AIDS workshop with our counterparts.
Week 6: Site Visit (Sirigu, Upper East Region) I won’t talk too much about it here, solely because it will be the setting for nearly every other blog post from here on out. But so far so good!
Week 7: PEPFAR Site Visit (Savelugu, Northern Region) Spent a week at a current volunteer’s site to see a PEPFAR project in action. PEPFAR is the President’s (President Bush) Emergency Plan for AIDS Relief. I went to a site just north of the Northern Region’s capital, Tamale, and helped with a project coordinated by a few current PCVs. It was an educational movie night with free testing and counseling during the film (or flim as Ghanaians call it).
Week 8: Offsite Tech-Training in Techimon (Techimon, Brong-Ahafo Region) This was the beginning of technical training. We learned about moringa, neem, and organic agriculture. We also went on a beautiful afternoon hike in the hills near the monastery where we were staying.
Week 9: Offsite Tech-Training (Bolgatanga, Upper East Region- my region!) Tech training during this week included beekeeping, visits to government agencies we might work with, and tree identification. During this offsite tech training, our day off was spent visiting a crocodile pond (I touched a crocodile and have pictures to prove it!) and an arts and pottery women’s group that has a visitor’s center in my village, Sirigu, and Kofi Annan visited the site a couple of years ago (pictures to come as well).
Week 10: Offsite Tech-Training in Tamale (Northern Region) We stayed a few days at a really nice hotel outside of Tamale and did shea grafting and visited a mango farm.
Week 11: back to homestay for language and tech-training exam (Maase/Kukurantumi, Eastern Region) We learned about committees that PCV have organized, I can’t wait to get involved.
Next week- Week 12: last week at homestay, and the much anticipated language proficiency interview
Market (or in Gurune- the da’a)
In market life, I’m progressing from one foot in front of the other to having the wherewithal to look around. We were away from our homestay communities for five weeks, and our return brought a small sense of comfort. Instead of seeing the market as a place where local children yelled ‘obroni’ and wooden hutches and boxes lined the way with food I couldn’t name, I now see families at work and an array of consumables. Blue cooler means water. Large metal bucket with plastic lining means chop (local term for local food). Sometimes there is consistency between the days, but a lot of times there isn’t. Coming from a world where shopping is a matter of ‘where’ something is bought, a new element of ‘when’ will now take precedence. I guess the idea of it is similar to something being on sale. The year-round supermarket doesn’t exist here.
Bug Bites
Amid all of the other inconveniences, I have to say, infected bugbites take the cake for the most haranguing obstacle. Before leaving, I would have told you I knew what an infected cut looked like, but being here has taken that to a whole new understanding. I sleep with a mosquito net (when the logistics allow), wear bugspray, and keep hydrocortosone cream within reach at all times of the day, but it’s never enough. They’re painful, sometimes swell, and go weeks without healing, all the while, the bites and itching continue. It’s what makes long sleeves and pants the ideal in a country that nearly borders the equator. With every tickle on my bare skin, I immediately brush away whatever might have been there without even looking at what may or may not have been there. I’ve taken to this so much so that when I spent a night at the Tamale PC sub-office, I brushed something away that had some weight to it, and in the light of a door jam, saw that this had been a lizard.
Mosquitoes are nearly invisible, I’ve only seen about three total. However, I haven’t gone more than a day without seeing a cockroach, spider, or absurdly oversized insect. Of the three, I have to say that the beetles are my least favorite. They are slower than the other species, so I feel obligated to kill them. Without a can of raid, this is a little more difficult with the bigger ones. Chacos or a door jam will do the job, but the worst is that their insides squirt out of their bodies. It really is disgusting. Dealing with bugs is, among other things, the simplest way to deter my being out after dark and using lights at night.
As simple amenities become luxuries, I am starting to feel comfortable here and can't wait to get started at sight. Hope all is well in America!
Sunday, July 3, 2011
Adjusting
Staging (in DC):
This was basically a get-to-know-you- sort of function. It’s a pretty big group and everyone is really nice. They are a lot different than my class from last year. Everyone here is on the more practical side of the spectrum, but I guess with a group of Peace Corps volunteers, that goes without saying. I am much less out of my league than I thought I would be. Though I’ve been really impressed with the knowledge and experience of most, especially the ones in my sector. But to talk about staging- the exciting part was that the director of the Peace Corps, Aaron Williams, came to speak and was really amazing; quite the well-spoken African American, with the plus of being a returned Peace Corps Volunteer. PC has been in Ghana for 50 years now, and he said a lot of Ghana’s political and government leaders have worked with Peace Corps volunteers at some point when they were younger, granted, these were mostly teachers, but meaningful nonetheless. The rest of the time at staging was mostly just a what-to-expect session. We were given a yellow fever shot on day two and took a bus to the airport later that day.
Week #1: (Accra/Valley View College)
On day three, we were scheduled to go in groups of three into the capital city of Accra. They showed us skits, told us of the horrible things that could go wrong. During the night before, I don’t think I have ever been more panicked in my life. It was like being in a bubble of happy PCVs, and going into a seemingly structure-less but dense city- less structure than a bubble. The list of things to be afraid of is endless, and it isn’t like I had a clear idea of what to do if things go south, aside from the blanket reassurances from different PCV trainers and staff that “Ghanaians are really nice” and that we shouldn’t create an opportunity for a criminal. With this is mind we left the training site to go into the capital city, Accra. It was a severe wake up call. Everything I saw throughout the day was this weird mix of things I had heard about before, but of course hadn’t actually seen or experienced. The most striking being transportation, probably because it was the only part I actually interacted with.
Week #3: (Homestay)
Well, the New York Times was right about the funerals. Ghanaian funerals do last for days and put any American party to shame. It literally goes for three to four days- 24 hours a day. A full night of sleep is impossible to come; obscene heat, no fan, obnoxious pygmy goats, roosters with absolutely no sense of time, bug bites, psychoactive malaria prevention medication (the dream thing is true), and ill-fitting mosquito net (however, I did just upgrade to a double wide). The funerals are just an added bonus, though they are Ghanaian culture at its best-my appreciation will come with time. There has been at least one every weekend, and by weekend I mean college party weekend- Thursday to Sunday.
Sunday, June 26, 2011
Arrived!!!

I'm here in Ghana!! And it feels oh so good. Most important things first, we got our site placements this week, and I couldn't be happier! Well, with the limited amount of information I have at least, and here it is: